Recently in Diet & Nutrition Category

Lucy Postins, founder of The Honest Kitchen, offers some sound advice for how to safely include your pets in your holiday feasting. Don't Forget Your Pet When Preparing Holiday Meals is a refreshing departure from the typical advice, which is to steer clear of holiday foods when it comes to your pets. It's not that abstaining from holiday feasts for pets is bad advice, it's just not that much fun. And most of us don't really follow that advice anyway, since we love including pets in our family traditions. So I was happy to see Lucy's article earlier this month about what foods are okay to feed pets during the holidays - and what to avoid - it gives us some framework to help us make decisions. Here's a short summary of Lucy's article:

Turkey, Ham, Prime Rib and other meats. Okay in small amounts / moderation and focus on meat - not fat and gristle. However, never feed any type of cooked bones - they can splinter and damage the GI tract. Too much fat and gristle can lead to pancreatitis - a very uncomfortable and dangerous condition. Stay away from meats with added sodium, nitrates and preservatives - they are bad for you and your pet.

Green Bean Casserole. Okay in very small amounts, but don't include the onion topping. Fresh raw or cooked green beans are okay to add to your dog's food any time.

Sweet Potatoes. Excellent source of beta carotene and highly nutritious. Steamed or baked sweet potatoes are ideal and easy to digest. Avoid serving your pets the traditional holiday version of sweet potato casserole that contains lots of syrup, marshmallows or candied nuts.

Cranberries. A great addition to your pet's bowl any time of year and especially during the holidays. No cranberry sauce or jelly, though, as these can be full of sugar and other things that Fido shouldn't have. Cranberries are good to help prevent urinary tract infections.

Pumpkin & Squash. These are wonderful foods to share with cats and dogs in moderate amounts. Most pets love the taste of these yummy and nutritious vegetables.

Winter Greens. Chard and kale are awesome sources of vitamins and antioxidants. Brussels sprouts and cabbage are also loaded with good nutrients, but they can cause gas in your pet's tummy. These can be added raw, lightly steemed or sauteed, but without added salt, wine, soy sauce or butter.

White Potatoes. Okay in moderate amounts. Avoid serving your pet potato dishes loaded with cream, dressings, oil or butter.

Lucy's List of Holiday Foods to Avoid

• Stuffing and corn pudding
• Desserts and cheeses
• Relishes
• Onions
• Chocolate
• Macadamia nuts
• Grapes
• Raisins
• Candies with xylitol

Lucy also explains that as with any time you change your pet's normal meal routine, it is best to make additions to your pet's bowl gradually so you can ensure your pet is able to tolerate what you are serving. Don't allow your pet to gorge. Gorging can lead to pancreatitis or bloat. If you do experience an incident where your pet over indulges due to counter surfing, or getting into the holiday trash, keep a close watch. If you notice signs of bloating, vomiting or other digestive problems such as diarrhea or constipation, Lucy says a visit to your vet's office is recommended, without delay. Happy Holidays!

We all look forward to the holiday season, and we love to include our pets in the festivities. However, the ASPCAs Holiday Safety Tips warns it is best to keep your pet's eating and exercise habits as close to normal as possible. Plus, there are certain holiday traditions you should steer clear of for the safety of your pets. Here are highlights from the ASPCA's Holiday Safety Tips...

1. Got cats? Say "NO!" to tinsel. Tinsel is the equivalent of sparkly "crack" to the kitties and can lead to obstructed digestive tracts, severe vomiting and possibly surgery. It is best to keep it away from your cats.
2. No big feasts for the Fur Kids. You know not to feed your pets chocolate or anything sweetened with xylitol, but it is also important to resist the urge to let your pets feast along with the family. One splurge can lead to pancreatitis or worse. Ensure pets are kept away from the table and unattended food. Take extra steps to secure the lids on garbage cans. The best way to include your pets in the holiday feasting festivities is to get an extra special treat that you know is safe - so they can enjoy something special while the rest of the family enjoys the holiday meal. Groovy has seasonal baked treats, yummy bones and canned meals you can serve as special treats for your pet.
3. Joy to the Toys. Considering stuffing your pet's stocking with toys? Be sure to select toys that are safe. Not sure which toys are safe? Select toys for your pets much the same way you would select a toy for a small child - no small pieces to break off or chew off. For your cat, choose a toy that you can interact while playing with your feline pal.
4. Holiday plants are dangerous for your pets! Steer clear of holly, mistletoe and certain lillies that are toxic to cats. These traditional holiday plants can cause symptoms ranging from nausea, vomiting and diarrhea up to and including kidney failure. Choose artificial plants instead.
5. No leftovers please! Fatty, spicy and certain foods enjoyed by humans during the holidays are absolute no-no's for pets. Even after the holiday feast has past, continue to keep your pets away from holiday leftovers.
6. Watch that holiday glow. Don't leave lighted candles unattended. Pets can easily burn themselves or cause a fire if they accidentally knock over a burning candle. If you leave the room, put out the candle!
7. Wired up. Keep wires, batteries and glass or plastic ornaments out of paws' reach.
8. Put meds away. Be sure your medications are locked behind secure doors, and be sure to tell your house guests to ensure all their meds are zipped up and packed away, out of pets reach too.
9. Take care with cocktails. If your celebration includes adult holiday beverages, be sure to place unattended alcohol where pets reach. If ingested, your pet could become very sick.
10. A room of their own. If you have the extra space, consider placing your pets in a quiet room where they can retreat -- complete with fresh water and a place to snuggle with their favorite blanket or toy. 

Also, read Five Holiday Pet Safety Tips written by Lucy Postins, founder of The Honest Kitchen, one of our absolute faves!

PHOTO CREDIT: ME! This is my dog :)

Do you have a white dog? Do you have problems with red/brown staining around the eyes ("tear stains" or red yeast stains)? Actually, lots of dogs have this, it's just far more obvious on light-colored dogs. I personally had given up on solving the problem (after spending untold hours researching the issue online). I had my dog's eyes checked by the Vet to be sure there was no blockage or infection, and I wasn't willing to use products that contain low-levels of antibiotic over the long term, or use topical applications containing peroxide (nothing like that near my dog's eyes!) ... so I resigned myself to just keeping the hair around her eyes clipped, and wiping away the muck with a washcloth a couple times a day... until ...

I just decided to switch her water from tap water to filtered (simple Britta filter). I had read advice about giving dogs bottled water or distilled water... but bottled water has plenty of minerals, and distilled water isn't readily available near me, and I do most of my shopping as a pedestrian. But I had finally rediscovered my Britta pitcher and filters after a move and started giving her the filtered water. I didn't see a change, to be honest, and hadn't really expected to -- but I was wrong. The change did occur, it just took months for me to realize it since it was winter, and we weren't having her trimmed so often. It turns out that for us, this one simple change has eliminated most tear stains, and without using any harsh or dangerous methods.

If you are having the same problem, you might try this. I'd advise against many of the products marketed online, since these actually contain antibiotics and aren't a good or healthy long-term solution. Other steps to take:

• Be sure your dog's food doesn't contain any dyes!
• and don't forget to check the treats... another source of evil dyes
  
• See the Vet to rule out allergies, duct deformities, or other ocular issues.
  
• Don't use plastic or chipped ceramic bowls for food or water, since they are more likely to harbor bacteria.
• Use stainless steel bowls, wash them daily, and always feed plenty of fresh water.
• On longer haired dogs, keep the hairs around the eyes clipped if they are causing irritation tearing.

Also, remember that it's completely normal for teething puppies to have tear staining.

I'm not terribly vain about myself, or my dog (though she's a beauty!), so I thought it wouldn't bother me so much... but the worst thing about the staining to me was that it made her look sickly and unhealthy, when I knew she was brimming with health. I love how brighteyed and vital she looks now, and I love that the solution (in our case) was so incredibly simple.

If anyone has their own success story with this problem, I'd be delighted to hear from you!

PHOTO BY CONOR KELLER

A "Salty Dog" can be a sailor, a cocktail, or even a blues song... but when it comes to your canine pal, hide the Morten's, 'cause you don't want no salty dog. This CBS News list of 13 foods you should never feed your dog warns, "Eating even a little salt can make your dog excessively thirsty and cause frequent urination. Large amounts can cause sodium poisoning, a condition that can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures, and even death. So whether it's from a shaker or your favorite chip, keep the salt on your plate and away from your dog."

Okay, easy enough, but consider biggest salt lick of all: the ocean. If you are planning some fun doggy jaunts to the seaside, don't forget to bring plenty of fresh water for your buddy! In The Side Effects of Dogs Drinking Salt Water, PetInfo.com reminds us that frolicking on the beach will make dogs thirsty, which can leading to lapping seawater, and drinking salt water can cause vomiting and dehydration, as well as a phenomenon known as "beach diarrhea": "This type of diarrhea occurs because the salt water has caused excess amounts of water to accumulate in your dog's intestines... Beach diarrhea has the following characteristics:

• A liquid consistency
• Urgency and frequency
• Causes your dog to strain to evacuate
• Contains blood or mucous"

PetInfo advises taking a break in the shade for some fresh water every 15 minutes, and carrying a dish or collapsible bowl your dog is familiar with (willing to drink from) -- or squirting the water in his mouth from a sports water bottle if he won't drink from the bowl.

PHOTO OF KITTY UNDER THE CHART BY TAMBAKO THE JAGUAR

Here's something that will probably be of interest to most pet owners, especially pet owners who are numbers or data geeks, and definitely of interest to anyone working or planning to work in the veterinary field: a Bayer Veterinary Care Usage Study [PDF; summarizing articles here and here] on veterinarian economic issues shows a startling decrease in vet visits for 2010... in fact, 55% of vets responding reported fewer visits. Wow. Trends also show steep fee increases from 2004-2006, with slowing, but still-increasing fees since then.

However, trends show pet ownership increasing.

My non-scientific personal observations are that pet owners have not suddenly become careless or unwilling to spend money on their pets. From pet-related internet forums, blogs, and advice sites, It seems to me that many more (internet-using, at least) pet owners seem ever more interested in pet nutrition generally and in acquiring better food for their pets, and also more willing to spend money on pets in various other ways -- doggy day care, pet accessories, toys, training. I know that I, for one, hope to keep injury- and illness-related vet visits to a minimum by feeding the best that I can, training to help avoid accidents and injury, being careful about parasite prevention, and trying to create a stress-free environment. But I'm also willing to invest in preventative vet visits, which is one of the conclusions drawn by the study: veterinarians need to emphasis the importance of wellness visits.

My non-scientific personal observation is that such visits need to be easy and affordable; the Bayer study tiptoes around the affordable part by advocating affordable financing, but I don't want to finance my pets' routine wellness care; that's something we associate with extreme procedures, isn't it? Financing for surgeries or treatments that cost thousands? Well, we'll see how that plays out. Here are some of the numbers:

Asked of veterinarians: How did the number of patient visits for the first 9 months of 2010 compare to the same period in 2009?

• 2010 increased more than 5%:  13.0 %
• 2010 declined more than 5%:  25.1 %
• 2010 increased 1 - 5%:  16.4 %
• 2010 declined 1 - 5%:  30.0 %

About 29% reported increased visits, 55% reported fewer visits, about 15% remained the same.

The Bayer conclusions about "Why Visits Are Declining":

Environmental Factors

• Recession
• Fragmentation of veterinary services
• Internet Information

Client Factors

• Don't understand need
• Sticker shock
• Feline resistance

Has feline resistance suddenly increased? First Tunisia, then Egypt, Libya, now Felines? ^..^ As to sticker shock, the study shows that 76% of fees increased above rate of inflation from 2004 - 2006, and while the rate of fee increases slowed from 2006 to 2008; a quick poll from July of 2010 indicates that about 80% of veterinarians planned to increase fees. Eighteen percent from the quick poll were not increasing fees, and only 1.4% were lowering fees. Perhaps this is more pertinent than feline resistance?

This study is not always user-friendly; it would have helped if they had clearly included the original question asked of vets in every case, for one thing. In some results, I'm seeing charts reporting things like "more" of X, without indicating "more" than what? More than five years ago? More than none? More than I ever dreamed of? And, of course, this is a poll for veterinarians, so conclusions trend toward solutions more palatable to this group. Pet owners can draw their own conclusions, obviously. Do note, however, that this was an economic study, so don't bother worrying about why the focus is so money-oriented -- it's basically a study about money; that doesn't mean your vet doesn't care about all the other issues that mean so much to us.

My non-scientific Note to Vets: don't always assume that pet owners simply/only need to be educated about wellness; you must also understand that the dramatic increase in fees has caused backlash. How can you mitigate that? My non-scientific Note to Pet Owners: Wellness issues are not just some hype to get you to spend more money; in the long run, attention to nutrition, behavior, training, environment, and preventative care will reduce illness and injury, speed healing, and cost you less than radical medical interventions. It's in the best interests of vets and owners to achieve a meeting of the minds -- and pocketbooks -- about this concept.

(My totally scientific Note to Felines: Vet want you good make... feeder person love. Chill.)

PHOTO BY JUSTIN ROSENBERG

Okay, we've all seen review and ratings lists and personal/professional recommendations of high quality versus low quality foods, right? But you have to wonder... who watches the watchers? Which rating groups are ardent and sincere animal lovers who only care about the health of our pets and the nutritional quality of their food -- and which ones are disguised industry shills astroturfing for a corporate paylord? Well, it's hard to tell sometimes, but ConsumerSearch.com has reviewed the reviewers for dog food (as of August 2010), and I'm inclined to go along with their findings because their first five top-rated review groups have also been my personal favorite top five review groups for a long time. I've used every one of these sources to learn more about nutrition in general, as well as find details about specific commercial foods, and they are all useful.

To me, though, The Whole Dog Journal (WDJ) has long been the holy grail of dog food reviews, for very good reason: their research is painstaking and detailed, with onsite visits and extremely strict criteria. But their annual lists of recommended foods are only available to subscribers (the subscription fee is reasonable, and worth it, in my opinion), so their recommendations don't get as much attention as they should in the internet age of instant-and-free information. Importantly, though, in addition to their thorough methodology, you always know that the Whole Dog Journal reviews are up to date and fresh each year, while it can often be difficult or impossible to find out how old a review is from another source -- and it's important! Sometimes companies are bought out or change management and quality plummets... but they coast along on their old reputation for a few years, effectively (but legally!)  defrauding owners who are trying to provide their pet with the healthiest possible option.

Speaking of the WDJ list, I'm going to steal Yvonne's comments about the 2011 list from the Groovy Cats & Dogs Facebook pages here because she makes some great points:
Yvonne's Observations of Whole Dog Journal Approved Dry Dog Food List 2011

PHOTO BY KEVIN STEELE

Does your cat have mysterious recurring cystitis that isn't related to infection, bladder stones, crystals in the urine,or other specific malady? If so, he or she has probably been diagnosed with Feline Idiopathic Cystitis (or possibly Interstitial Cystitis), which basically means "we don't know!" VetInfo.com says this: Feline idiopathic cystitis (FIC) is an inflammation of the bladder of unknown origin. The name is often used interchangeably with Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD). Research suggests that FIC is often a stress-related condition. In some cases, FIC may be viral, dietary or genetic.

Symptoms of FIC:

• Frequent urination
• Cat has blood in urine
• Straining to urinate
• Inappropriate cat urination

Now, before we go on, I have to emphasize that it's absolutely vital to rule out more common causes of feline urinary tract problems, like crystals, uroliths, etc., because in some cases these may be life-threatening, especially for male cats, and in no case should they go untreated. However, once the Vet has decided that these are not at issue, you should consider research that indicates that some cats develop inflammations of the bladder in response to stress factors which can be eased by an approach that is called Multimodal Environmental Modification, or MEMO (here is a PDF of a clinical study), which sounds complicated, but mostly just means reducing or eliminating things that are stressful for kitty. These stressors can be various: upsets in the household, problems with other cats, boredom, holiday excitement, traveling, frustration, etc.  The Indoor Pet Initiative site has a section that addresses various feline stressors (see the list on the left side), that can be helpful in your efforts to create a low-stress environment for your sensitive kitty.

The good news is that the MEMO approach is good for a lot of other feline problems as well, according to the clinical study linked above: "In conclusion, MEMO resulted in significant improvement of LUTS [lower urinary tract signs] in cats with idiopathic cystitis, as well as improvement of signs referable to some other organ systems. Indoor housing and stress have been associated with a number of common disorders of cats, including behavioral problems (Heidenberger 1997), diabetes (Rand et al 2004), dental disease, hyperthyroidism, obesity, separation anxiety disorder, and urolithiasis (Buffington 2002). Given the increased disease in indoor-housed cats, and the ease and safety associated with MEMO, we recommend that this approach be offered to all clients with indoor-housed cats as part of preventative health care."

One more white paper on FIC (PDF). As indicated here and elsewhere, a high quality wet diet is almost always better for cats with urinary tract problems, but it should be noted that even a food change can be stressful, so it's probably a good idea to try to introduce new food gently. I can't place it now, but one item I read suggested placing small amounts of both old and new food on separate saucers and allowing the cat to sample both over time (and, with luck, gravitate toward the better wet food). Others have suggested replacing the regular dry kibble just a half-teaspoonful at a time with the new wet food, until kitty is eating all wet food.

Okay, that was your silly-funny for today, but feline obesity is a very serious issue (with some complications that can lead to life-threatening consequences), so here's our serious for today: I've made an easy bulleted list of important concepts to keep in mind when dealing with an overweight or obese cat, followed by some very helpful links:

• The most common causes for feline obesity are lack of exercise and cheap, dry kibble with too many carbohydrates and too much vegetable (as opposed to animal) protein.
• Some common diseases leading to death that can be caused by feline obesity are Diabetes, Fatty Liver Disease, and Kidney Disease.
• The best food for an overweight cat is a high quality, high (animal) protein, wet cat food -- or the so-called "Catkins Diet."
• BUT be very, very careful about putting your cat "on a diet"; a cat that doesn't eat enough, misses meals, or refuses to eat is also at risk for developing Fatty Liver Disease, which can kill quickly!
• The goal is for your kitty to lose weight gradually over time. Sudden or dramatic weight loss can be a serious danger sign, and you should visit the vet immediately!
  
• When switching foods, a very gradual transition is better. Try introducing only a half-teaspoonful of the wet food to the kibble at first. If your cat won't eat the kibble when mixed with the new wet food, try putting a dab on a separate plate instead, and see if he will begin to eat it that way. Even if kitty loves the wet food, it's better to build up to the all-new to avoid digestion problems.
• If your cat just won't eat the healthier wet food, no way, no how, try to transition to a kibble that is mostly animal protein. When reading labels, remember to add together all the carbohydrates -- even if they are listed separately -- to see how they stack up against the animal protein. You want the kibble with the highest amount of animal protein you can find!
• For overweight cats, reducing fat in the diet is not the goal! Reducing carbohydrates and non-animal protein is what you're after.
• No free feeding! Keep a set feeding schedule, feed the proper amount, and don't undo your good work with too many treats. If you are dealing with different cats who need different foods, separate them at mealtime.
• Most of our indoor cats are too sedentary, so get involved and play with your cat! . Don't worry if kitty is only willing to play for a few minutes; this will probably increase as s/he loses the excess weight. You can try initiating several short play periods during the day instead of one long session.
• Toys! Any toy that encourages exercise is good, and a variety of different toys is more likely to lead to less boredom and more play. Ping pong balls, a bit of crumpled aluminum foil, laser pointers (avoid shining the light directly into kitty's eyes!), wand toys, toys that emulate or look like cats' natural prey are all good. If there aren't many climbing opportunities in your home, consider a cat tree to encourage more activity.
• To summarize: high-animal protein wet food; gradual weight loss; play and toys to increase exercise ... and of course, it's always a good idea to consult your vet, especially if your cat is older, or has any other health issues.

Links:

Here is a really, really great educational and helpful comment by a veterinarian in an AskMetafilter post about how to slim down a fat cat.

About the "Catkins Diet"

Good, short, clear article about addressing feline obesity, from a veterinarian

The Basics of Feline Nutrition

Fatty Liver Disease in Cats
 

PHOTO BY NEXUS6 ON FLICKR

Do you ever have the feeling that your dog smells worse after a bath, than before? Well, you may be right, and it's perfectly natural; when dogs get wet they excrete natural oils meant to coat their fur and allow water to roll off more easily, and this is usually the source of that "wet dog smell" we all love so much. Hounds and dogs bred for water sports have more active glands for this purpose, so tend to be even wet-dog-smellier, plus, bacteria breeds more freely in wet fur than dry -- so thoroughly drying your apres-douche doggy will go a long way toward eliminating the post-bath smellies. If your dog's fur is particularly hard to dry, you can use a blowdryer, but only on the lowest setting!

As for other reasons your sweet pooch may not smell quite so sweet, the How to Get Rid of Things site has a good article on How To Get Rid of Dog Smell. Basically, though, if your dog smells bad and you don't know why (beyond the obvious: dirty, rolled in stinky matter, met a skunk), consider these possibilities: bad diet (among other negative reactions and overall health problems, cereal-based foods can cause flatulence and gastrointestinal disorders, as well as allergies -- all of which can make for a smelly best friend), ear infection, skin disease/infection, allergies, bad dental hygiene, impacted anal glands. Dogs with prominent skin folds (like bulldogs and Shar-peis, for example) need special attention to keep those folds clean and dry (read about fold dermatitis and see which breeds are susceptible here). Even medication can make your dog smell odd or bad, so keep that in mind as well.

And don't forget that excessive bathing can also exacerbate the very problem you were trying to address: if your dog's skin becomes too dry, it can become irritated, infected, or over-oily as a reaction, and insufficient rinsing can cause the same reaction. Here are PAW Rescue's tips for bathing frequency and method.

Kroger Co. has recalled some packages of pet food due to possible Aflatoxin contamination.  Affected brands include: Pet Pride, Old Yeller, and Kroger Value brand pet foods all produced at a Kroger-owned factory in Springfield, Tenn. The  recalled products have a sell-by date of either Oct. 23 or 24, 2011, so a package would read OCT 23 11 DP or OCT 24 11 DP.

"The recall affects customers at Kroger's, Dillons, Gerbes, Baker's, Food 4 Less, Jay C, Hilander, Owen's, Pay Less and Scott's stores in 19 states across the Midwest and South: Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, North Carolina, Ohio, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia and West Virginia."

Personally, I would be wary of stock even outside of the specific states mentioned, and beyond/before the specific dates, just because Aflatoxin is nothing to mess around with. Here's a very good article that explains this mycotoxin, and also has some excellent advice for handling/storing your pet's food, since this is also a likely source of contamination. Very helpful!

UPDATE: Further searching indicates this does affect other states and outlets than those being listed in most news outlets. Here's some info from the FDA. So, again, I'd err on the side of greater caution and dump any of it. Plus, as the second linked article here indicates; wash food containers before adding new food.